Friday, June 8, 2012

Goodbye New Orleans

Good bye New Orleans

Sorry for delay in posting, had serious issues with this working.  I am hoping merely updating this app has fixed the problem - fingers crossed:   Didn't work, back to the drawing board....


After three very interesting days in New Orleans, it is time to hit the road for the beach. 

I have been obsessed with getting back to NOLA long before I married Alan.  It has always been one of my favourite cities.  I have no idea what took so long, apart from the last time we had the opportunity in July 2005. I will never forgive myself for changing my mind and going to Panama City instead.  Now that I have finally gotten here, I sincerely believe that was the last chance to see the New Orleans I remember.

We stayed at the Holiday Inn on Rue Dauphine, right in the French Quarter. Perfect location - away from the madness of Bourbon Street, but close enough to do and see everything.  We also discovered the streetcars, perfect way to get around. A day pass is $3 and super value for money.

Driving from Mobile going along I-10 on the way in, was not the scenic drive I remembered. Later, I saw a map and there is a route along  the coast - we will do that today.

First day, just wandered along the French Quarter, too early and very quiet.  Later, walking down Bourbon Street is so noisy, I videoed this and will try to attach at a later date.

We stopped at a nice place for a drink, I tried a Mojito and it was delicious.  
The menu looked fantastic, but when we went back there for dinner we discovered that whole area seems to close about 8.   It was called River's Edge Restaurant  across the street from Cafe du Monde (which is open 24 hours).

We ended up at a 24 hour diner where I got red beans & rice and sweet potato fries!  2 side orders and it was perfect!

Early night since we got up at 3am!

Next day we did the River Road to see the gorgeous plantation houses.  Roxanne suggested driving up one side of the river  and down the other, but everyone kept programming the satnav to get to the only 4 showing on a brochure we had.  I think we missed a fantastic drive....what we did see was breathtaking.



Destrahan 


San Fransisco 

Oak Alley 

When we arrived at Oak Alley there was a river boat, The American Queen, docked and passengers were walking over to visit!  Just like the days when river boats were the main transport!


Our tour guide at Oak Alley


We discovered a fantastic little place for dinner - The New Orleans Oyster and Hamburger.  I got A Strawberry Fields salad and it was wonderful - strawberries (obviously), sugared pecans, bleu cheese, onions, red cabbage, lettuce with poppy dressing.  We went back the next night, this time I got fried catfish!  Wonderful!

We were very lucky to get into Preservation Hall after dinner. This is a must for anyone going to NOLA. Traditional jazz at its finest. 

Unfortunately, no photographs were permitted once the band came out.


Last day in NOLA found us breakfasting at Cafe du Monde, with the requisite beignets and cafe au lait!  Donuts in another incarnation!

Our next mission was to discover the Garden District, we did this by taking the St Charles streetcar. I think we made a mistake actually getting off  at the  garden district  stop instead  of staying on through  the district.  It was  too late to remember that this was what my friend, Shoana, suggested.  It is a beautiful part of NOLA!

Our next adventure was to go on the river boat tour on the Natchez.  I don't know what I was thinking, but I immediately got myself a Marguarita, which was delicious!  However, I failed to think about the time - it was only 11:30am......whoops! 

The captain called this an American Jack. I have never heard of this....

Coming back to NOLA - we were greeted by 2 street artists. One was a President Obama lookalike "walking his dog", the other was a trumpet player who had serenaded us both leaving and coming back.  The 'President' was totally still for longer than seemed humanly possible.  He based himself prominently on top of the levee while we approached the dock, then he and his 'dog' placed themselves right where we disembarked.




We all split for a while, me to shop, Alan went to take more pictures and I don't know what Jim and Jennifer did-apart from buying us gifts!!!!!  It was fantastic being on my own for a few hours!  The only place I shopped was Chico's with their sale!

After dinner, we went to the dock for a group photo with the Natchez on the background. Then to Lafitte's blacksmith shop for a special photo Alan wanted to do. He bought us a beer while we waited. With a window seat, it was  a great place to wait for him.Alan and I intended at some point during the day or night to go to Pat O'Briens for a Hurricane. But after the morning Marguarita, and happy hour at the Oyster bar, and beer at the blacksmith shop, I could not face a further 4 1/2 ounces of rum!  So what is probably my last trip to NOLA did not see me realize the one thing I have never done there!  Oh well, I ticked all the other boxes so am not too disappointed at missing a massively strong alcoholic drink I can really get anywhere.

To be perfectly honest, I was a bit disappointed in the whole experience of New Orleans though.  I know you can never go back, but it feels as if the heart of New Orleans is gone.  The wonderful experience of street artists,which is one of the highlights to me - did not happen. Yes, there were a few, but comparatively speaking, not even half of what I have seen in the past.  I wonder if this is a direct result of all the people who had to leave after  Katrina and never came back?  Preservation Hall is so organised now, not the drop in place for old retired jazz players to jam together it used to be.  Still a fantastic evening, just not as magic.  Bourbon Street is mainly rock and roll, not jazz.  I think that was the most upsetting part, but the most understandable. The generation spending the money is younger and not into jazz.  So times do change.          

It's the song ye sing, and the smiles ye wear. That's a makin' the sun shine everywhere.  James Whitcomb Riley




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